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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.